Jewelry Glossary
Essential terms from the world of fine jewelry and gemology
- Gemological Appraisal
- A certified professional evaluation of precious stones and jewelry. Includes species identification, origin determination, treatment detection, quality grading, and economic value estimation. In Italy, court appraisals carry legal weight in judicial proceedings.
- Gemology
- The science that studies precious stones: mineralogy, crystallography, optical and physical properties. A professional gemologist can identify, classify, and evaluate gems using specialized instruments (refractometer, spectroscope, gemological microscope).
- Carat (ct)
- Unit of weight measurement for precious stones. One carat equals 0.2 grams. For precious metals (gold), carat indicates purity: 18-carat gold (18kt or 750) contains 75% pure gold.
- Cut
- The shape and proportions given to a rough stone by the cutter. Main cuts include: round brilliant, princess, oval, emerald, marquise, pear, cushion, radiant. Cut quality affects brilliance, fire, and scintillation.
- Inclusion
- An internal characteristic of a precious stone: crystals, fractures, fluids, or other materials trapped during formation. Inclusions determine the clarity grade and can help identify geographic origin and distinguish natural from synthetic stones.
- Lost-Wax Casting
- An ancient goldsmith production technique: a wax model is coated in refractory material, the wax is melted away, and molten precious metal is poured into the resulting mold. Enables creation of complex, detailed forms with high fidelity to the original design.
- Stone Setting
- The technique of fixing precious stones to the metal support. Main techniques include: prong setting, bezel setting, pave, channel setting, and invisible setting. Each technique offers different aesthetic and security advantages.
- Hallmark (Punzone)
- A mark stamped on precious metals certifying their purity. In Italy, hallmarking is mandatory by law and includes: the star (symbol of the Republic), the manufacturer's identification number, and the metal fineness (e.g., 750 for 18kt gold).